MAF and Air Temp Sensors

**PacificGreen** · 07-31-2010, 09:48 PM

So the other night I cleaned my MAF and ended up moving the middle crosswire some. I also discovered that my Air Temperature sensor was not even plugged in. Reassembled and car idles great now.

What sucks now though is that the car bucks in low gears when I let off on the gas. I did a test in third gear with the cruise on and it was very erratic. Have I damaged the MAF sensor? Has the computer adapted now to having the Air Temperature sensor in because it no longer throws a HEGO code.

Before I was playing with the idle set screw so between that, the MAF cleaning and the Air Temperature sensor I'm a little stymied on how to get it running smoothly again. Any suggestions?

**PacificGreen** · 07-31-2010, 10:09 PM

So I found the problem with the MAF as I'm sure I didn't dork the transistor on the hot wires. Accordingly "Machine" writes:

Quote:

If you turn the meter where you have it, the change of direction for the air going over the element is going to affect your tune. You need to place the MAF, tune the car and leave the MAF in it's same location.

So in my folly I managed to clean the MAF and reorientated it to a position that it was not tuned for. I'll have to experiment with moving the MAF to see if I can get it close the the tuned position.

**PacificGreen** · 07-31-2010, 11:00 PM

Okay I really appreciate the accessibility of the individuals that respond to newbie questions that I pose. Really. Also some companies are great to work with especially when you can call them at 10:30PM and they respond to newbie questions.

So typically when you (for my own reference and perhaps others) clean your MAF you should note the location of the MAF before you remove by marking the orientation of the electronics on the pipe from which you disassemble Johnny Five. Then so far as Tech Motion Matt is concerned if you failed in step one and removed your MAF without marking - the standard representative airflow is best observed by positioning the electronics 45 degrees clockwise facing the engine.

So simpley from a 12:00 to 3:00 would be a 90 degree position so half that would be rougly seven and a half minutes past 12:00. The question of course being in a fenderwell design which is the top of the pipe and which is not. So with two adjustments I should have a car that does not buck on deceleration and one that idles properly.

I'll try a couple of adjustments tomorrow evening.

**G-Spot** · 08-01-2010, 07:40 PM

Hahaha, you found a post of mine on ModularFords I'm guessing! I'm 'Machine' over there!

**G-Spot** · 08-01-2010, 09:35 PM

Just re-read your post and I would suggest a datalog of your car to see what the fuel trims and MAF counts are like. I could determine a lot from those...

**PacificGreen** · 08-02-2010, 10:36 PM

I want to switch to an SCT setup but I think being on probation and having to visit Mr. Puzey might not be a bad idea as I would stand to learn something every time I install a new mod.

Anyway tonight in the mud again I adjusted my MAF sensor as per the previous directions. Idle is perfect and the bucking is gone. Drivable yes! Hooked up nicely on the pavement too for close to thirty feet and easily even in muddy work boots - uggh.

Data logging and fuel trims I guess will come on the 9th unless that information can be obtained from my Innova Scanner.